Gnocchi with spinach and gorgonzola

Method

1. Bring 2.5 litres water to the boil over a high heat in the covered 4-litre saucepan, then reduce the heat to low and keep covered until step 4. Put the still-frozen spinach in the 26 cm sauté pan without water, cover and thaw over a low heat for 6–8 minutes, separating the portions with a spoon halfway through. Meanwhile, peel the garlic and crush with the flat of a knife, scrape the rind off the gorgonzola and cut into 1 cm dice, and grate the Parmesan and nutmeg. If using walnuts, toast in a small dry frying pan over a medium heat for 3 minutes, shaking, until they smell toasted, then roughly chop with a knife. Put two shallow bowls to warm.
2. Tip the spinach into a sieve and press firmly with the back of a spoon until no more liquid comes out; it loses about one-third of its weight. If using whole leaves, chop roughly with a knife. Wipe the sauté pan, melt the butter in it over a medium-low heat with the crushed garlic clove and leave for 1 minute. The garlic should sizzle and smell fragrant without colouring. Remove the clove, add the squeezed spinach and fine salt, and sauté for 2–3 minutes, until the spinach dries, turns glossy and absorbs the butter.
3. Push the spinach to the edge of the pan, pour the cream into the centre and bring to a simmer. Add the diced gorgonzola and stir over a very low heat for 2 minutes, without boiling, until smooth, ivory-coloured and thick enough to coat a spoon. Add the nutmeg and 6 turns of pepper, mix with the spinach, turn off the heat and cover. The sauce can wait like this for the gnocchi.
4. Bring the water back to a rolling boil over a high heat and add the 25 g coarse salt. Add the gnocchi, stir gently once and maintain a lively simmer. As soon as they float, reserve a small ladleful of cooking water, 75 g. Lift the gnocchi out with a slotted spoon 20–30 seconds after they rise, 2–3 minutes in total, directly into the sauce, with the sauté pan back over a low heat.
5. Stir gently for 1 minute over a low heat, rocking the pan and adding the reserved cooking water 1 tbsp at a time, 3–5 tbsp in total, until the sauce coats the gnocchi and flows slowly across the bottom. Off the heat, sprinkle in the Parmesan and stir for another 20 seconds, making the sauce glossy and fuller-flavoured. Taste: the blue cheese and Parmesan usually provide enough salt; add a pinch of fine salt if needed.
6. Serve immediately in the warm shallow bowls, with 2 turns of pepper over each and the chopped toasted walnuts scattered on top, if using.

Variants and their steps remain below the recipe.