Pitta with warm chickpeas, tahini, harif and brined cucumbers

Method

1. Bring 1 litre water to a simmer in a small saucepan. For the optional eggs, lower them in once the water boils, set a timer for 9 minutes, then lift out with a slotted spoon into a bowl of cold water when it rings. Meanwhile, rinse and drain the chickpeas and squeeze the lemons (70 g juice). In the large bowl, grate the garlic into 50 g lemon juice with 1.5 g salt and leave for 2 minutes to mellow the garlic.
2. Add the tahini and cumin to the large bowl and mix with a fork: the paste will stiffen and turn grainy because of the lemon; this is normal. Whisk in the 70 g ice-cold water in three additions: the sauce should become pale and smooth, falling slowly from the spoon in a thick ribbon. If still firm, add another spoonful of ice-cold water. Transfer a third of the sauce, 4 generous tbsp (about 70 g), to the small bowl for serving.
3. Prepare the toppings, each in its own small dish. For the harif, finely chop the green chilli and add a pinch of salt and 1 tbsp lemon juice. For the salad, cut the cucumber, tomato and red onion into 5 mm dice, but do not season yet. Cut the brined cucumbers into 3 mm slices. Chop the parsley.
4. Add the chickpeas to the simmering water for 3 minutes, then reserve 3 tbsp of this water and drain in the colander. Peel the cooled eggs and slice them. Tip the chickpeas, still hot, into the large bowl with 1 tbsp olive oil and 2.5 g salt (a scant ½ tsp), then crush with a potato masher or fork, leaving a good third of the chickpeas whole. If the mixture is sticky or still floury, loosen with 1–2 tbsp reserved water: it should be soft and hold on the spoon without running off. Fold in half the parsley. Taste: the mixture should be distinctly salty and lemony; adjust before filling the pittas.
5. Warm each pitta for 30–45 seconds per side in a dry frying pan over a high heat, or directly over a gas flame: it should puff up, soften and smell of warm bread, without forming a crust. Immediately cut it open with a knife along half its edge. Season the salad at the last moment with a pinch of salt, 1 tsp lemon juice and 1 tsp olive oil.
6. Fill each pitta in this order: a quarter of the crushed chickpeas at the bottom of the pocket, a quarter of the salad, sliced brined cucumber (and egg), a teaspoon of harif, then 1 generous tbsp reserved tahini sauce poured over the top. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil (1 level tsp per pitta), a pinch of paprika and the remaining parsley; add a drizzle of amba if liked. Serve immediately, two pittas per person.

Variants and their steps remain below the recipe.