Tunisian Jewish cooking
Tunisian fish complet with tastira and potatoes
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Fried grey mullet, golden potatoes, a tastira of peppers and tomatoes with garlic, and an egg: a generous plate from Tunisia’s coastal towns.
Method
- If preparing original and lighter portions together, set aside the ingredients and quantities shown for the lighter portions; the remainder is for the original portions. Prepare the two versions separately wherever their cooking or seasoning differs. Divide the quantities given for the whole preparation between the pans or bowls, rather than using the full quantity in each. Keep the fish in the fridge. Peel the potatoes, cut into 1 cm chips, rinse, then dry very thoroughly. Prepare the peppers, tomatoes and garlic. Heat the oven to 90°C to keep the first fried batches warm.
- For the original portions, heat the sunflower oil bath to 160°C in a saucepan suited to the available oil volume (20 cm as a guide), filling it no more than halfway. Fry the potatoes in batches suited to the pan, without crowding, for 6–8 minutes: they should soften but stay pale. Drain on a rack.
- Bring the oil to 170°C. Dry the peppers, fry in small batches for 5–6 minutes, then drain. Roughly chop with a knife. In a sauté pan, heat 15 g olive oil for the tastira, add the garlic, caraway, 1 g cumin and harissa; stir for 30 seconds, then add the tomatoes and 1 g salt. Cook over a medium heat for 12–15 minutes, until the free liquid has evaporated. Stir in the peppers and keep over a very low heat.
- Bring the oil bath to 180°C and fry the potatoes again in batches suited to the pan, for 2–3 minutes until golden. Drain, season with 2 g salt for the potatoes and keep on the rack in the oven, uncovered to preserve the crust.
- For the fish portions, take out the allocated fish, pat dry and rub with the shares of cumin (two-thirds), salt (one-third) and pepper reserved for these portions only. Dust very lightly with flour and shake off the excess. Lower the oil bath to 170°C and fry the steaks in batches suited to the pan for 3–4 minutes per side, depending on their thickness. The flesh should be opaque and come away from the bone, at about 63°C in the centre. Drain on a clean rack. Keep the first batch on this clean rack in the oven already at 90°C, uncovered, only while frying the final batch, about 6–8 minutes. Plate up and serve immediately afterwards; do not extend this holding time.
- During the final batch, heat the 10 g olive oil reserved for the eggs in a small frying pan. Crack in the allocated eggs, season with 1 g salt and cook over a medium-low heat for 3–4 minutes, until the whites are set. Cover briefly if needed to set the white close to the yolk.
- Serve the hot tastira, potatoes, fish steaks and eggs with the lemon wedges. Use clean utensils for each component and serve as soon as the fish has finished frying.
Variants and their steps remain below the recipe.
Fish-free
- Reference variation for two servings.
- Fresh mullet steaks, prepared by the fishmonger → Tinned chickpeas (400 g tin) 400 g (Drained and rinsed weight, reserved for the fish-free portions)
- add Water 50 g (50 g for reheating the chickpeas for the fish-free portions)
- without Plain wheat flour
- For the fish-free portions, keep their shares of tastira, potatoes and eggs. Instead of frying fish, add their chickpeas (400 g) to their tastira with the cumin reserved for them (2 g) and their water (50 g); cover and simmer for 6 minutes. Do not add their share of salt allocated to the fish steaks (2 g) before tasting the chickpeas.
- For a mixed meal, use the fish and chickpea quantities shown for the selected portions. Before flouring or frying the fish, set aside the potatoes and tastira for the fish-free portions using clean utensils. Reheat their chickpeas in this tastira with the cumin and water specified in this section, covered, for 6 minutes; these quantities are included in the totals and are added only once.
- Fry the fish only after the vegetables. Do not return potatoes or peppers to the oil after adding fish. Use a separate slotted spoon, rack and plates for the fish steaks; serve the eggs with a clean spatula. Follow the same arrangement for the oven version, with the fish in its own dish.
- Use the pepper allocated to these portions (0.5 g) for the chickpeas. If these portions are also lighter, add the sunflower oil reserved for their fish or chickpeas in the lighter section to their tastira, instead of using it on fish. This share is one-third of their sunflower oil; do not take the oil allocated to fish steaks in other portions. For an original fish-free portion, do not add any brushing oil.
Tastira, egg and potatoes feature in both versions; chickpeas complete the fish-free portions. Reserve each portion’s prepared quantities of fish or chickpeas and accompaniments. Pareve variant.
Lighter version
Reference variation for two servings.
The fish and potatoes lose their fried crust. Roasted peppers are sweeter and less oily; the tastira stays spicy, but the plate is less crisp and less rich.
- Sunflower oil, for frying or as a neutral oil : 30 g
- Extra virgin olive oil : 15 g
- Plain wheat flour : removed
Replace all deep-frying with oven cooking. At 220°C fan, toss the potatoes with 15 g sunflower oil and the peppers with 5 g, then spread on a baking tray. Roast for 30–35 minutes, turning halfway through and removing the peppers as soon as tender and golden for the tastira.
Make the tastira with 10 g olive oil for these portions. Cook the fish steaks without flour in a separate dish, brushed with the 10 g sunflower oil reserved for them, for 12–16 minutes at 200°C, until the flesh is opaque and reaches 63°C at the centre. Keep the potatoes warm while the fish cooks. Prepare the eggs with 5 g olive oil for these portions. Allow about 80 minutes in total.
All the oil listed in this version is consumed; there is no frying bath.
On your plate
Recipe
1168 kcal · protein 62 g · carbs 59 g · fat 73 g
Quantities per person
- 300 g Fresh mullet steaks, prepared by the fishmonger
- 250 g Potatoes
- 125 g Green peppers
- 150 g Tomatoes, vine or round
- 50 g Eggs
- 7.5 g Garlic
- 375 g Sunflower oil, for frying or as a neutral oil
- 12.5 g Extra virgin olive oil
- 17.5 g Plain wheat flour
- 1.5 g Ground cumin
- 0.5 g Ground caraway
- 6 g Harissa
- 60 g Lemon
- 3 g Fine salt
- 0.25 g Ground black pepper
Fish-free version
1101 kcal · protein 29 g · carbs 82 g · fat 70 g
Quantities per person
- 250 g Potatoes
- 125 g Green peppers
- 150 g Tomatoes, vine or round
- 50 g Eggs
- 7.5 g Garlic
- 375 g Sunflower oil, for frying or as a neutral oil
- 12.5 g Extra virgin olive oil
- 1.5 g Ground cumin
- 0.5 g Ground caraway
- 6 g Harissa
- 60 g Lemon
- 3 g Fine salt
- 0.25 g Ground black pepper
- 200 g Tinned chickpeas (400 g tin)
- 25 g Water
Cooking tips
Ask the fishmonger for evenly cut steaks from a fresh fish they have prepared, and buy them on the day. No preparation of a whole fish is needed at home. Never put wet food into the frying oil. The 90 g oil absorbed for the reference original complet is an estimate; discard the remaining oil once cooled. This complet is best freshly made.
Tunisian fish complet; home-cooking reference: Annie Boukris, Harissa, “Complet poisson”.
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