Spaghetti alla Nerano with courgettes and provolone

Method

1. If preparing original and lighter portions together, set aside the ingredients and quantities shown for the lighter portions; the remainder is for the original portions. Prepare the two versions separately wherever their cooking or seasoning differs. Divide the quantities given for the whole preparation between the pans or bowls, rather than using the full quantity in each. Cut the courgettes into even 2 mm rounds and dry thoroughly with a tea towel. Heat the frying oil in a pan suited to the amount available (reference: a 24 cm frying pan) to 170°C: a courgette round should sizzle straight away without browning within seconds. Put the pasta water on to heat in the saucepan too; keep it covered at a very gentle simmer until all the courgettes are cooked.
2. Fry the courgettes in batches without crowding the pan (three batches for the two-portion reference), for 4–5 minutes per batch, turning halfway through. They should be pale golden with a few brown edges, rather than dry and crisp all the way through. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on a rack or kitchen paper, season with the 2 g of salt and scatter over half the basil, torn. Leave to rest while the pasta cooks.
3. Once all the courgettes are golden, drained and set aside with the basil, bring the water back to the boil and add the 18 g of salt. Only then add the spaghetti and cook for 1 minute less than the packet instructions. Meanwhile, finely grate the provolone and prepare the garlic sauté pan as described in the next step. Reserve a total of 250 g of water while the pasta cooks: 80 g for the sauté pan and the rest for finishing the sauce.
4. While the spaghetti cooks, heat the olive oil set aside for the garlic (10 g in total, divided between the versions) with the garlic in a sauté pan over a medium heat for 1 minute, until fragrant but not browned. Remove the garlic. Add the courgettes and 80 g of pasta cooking water, then crush about a quarter of the rounds with a spoon to make a creamy base; keep over a very low heat until the pasta is ready to transfer.
5. Transfer the spaghetti straight from the saucepan to the sauté pan, without leaving it to stand after draining, and stir over a medium heat for 1 minute with a little more cooking water. Turn off the heat, wait 30 seconds, then add the provolone in three batches, stirring vigorously. Add the reserved water a spoonful at a time until the sauce coats the pasta without becoming sticky. Finish with the remaining basil and the pepper, and serve immediately.

Variants and their steps remain below the recipe.