Chicken pad Thai with golden tofu and peanuts

Method

1. Soak the noodles in a large bowl of room-temperature water for 45–60 minutes, depending on their thickness, then drain: they should bend completely without breaking but still be firm; do not precook in boiling water, and discard the soaking water. Meanwhile, put the tofu block between two sheets of kitchen paper under a weighted plate (use a tin) for 10 minutes, then cut into 1 cm cubes.
2. While the noodles soak, mix the chicken slices with 15 g soy sauce, 3 g sugar and the cornflour and refrigerate: this keeps the chicken tender and pearly when cooked. Chop the garlic and shallots, slice the white parts of the spring onions and cut the green parts into 3 cm lengths, crush the peanuts with a knife or in a bag with a rolling pin (coarse crumbs, not powder), and cut the lime into 6 wedges. Crack each egg into a small bowl and check for blood spots. Set aside 50 g raw sprouts for the table.
3. In a small saucepan, heat the tamarind, 30 g sugar, 35 g soy sauce and 50 g water over a low heat for 2–3 minutes, stirring until the sugar dissolves completely: the sauce should barely coat a spoon. Taste: it should seem too strong, distinctly tangy, sweet and clearly salty, as the noodles and sprouts will dilute it; adjust with a little tamarind if too sweet, or a splash of soy sauce if flat. Divide all the components into two equal batches before turning on the heat: the pan takes just one portion at a time.
4. Heat a 28 cm frying pan over a high heat with 20 g oil. Brown half the tofu cubes for 3 minutes, turning once: they should develop a crust and sound hollow when tapped; transfer to a plate. In the same oil, spread half the chicken in a single layer, sear for 1 minute without stirring to colour, then stir-fry for 1–2 minutes: the slices should be opaque and firm, golden on one side; reserve with the tofu. Immediately add half the shallot, garlic and spring onion whites and a pinch of chilli flakes; stir constantly for 30–45 seconds until fragrant, without colouring the garlic.
5. Follow with half the noodles and sauce. Stir-fry over a high heat for 2–3 minutes with two spatulas, lifting the noodles. If still hard when the sauce is absorbed, add up to 30 g water in two additions. Taste a noodle: tender but still springy, with clear seasoning; add a splash of soy sauce if flat.
6. Push the noodles to one side, pour 5 g oil into the empty space and add one egg from its bowl. Scramble for 30 seconds, then mix into the noodles. Return the chicken and tofu, add 50 g sprouts and half the spring onion greens and stir-fry, lifting, for just 30–45 seconds: the sprouts should stay translucent and crisp, and the chicken only needs reheating. Turn off the heat and immediately serve onto a warm plate.
7. Cover this first plate and keep in an 80°C oven for no more than 5 minutes: it will hold. Off the heat, wipe the pan with kitchen paper (20 seconds; the caramelised residue would burn), return to a high heat with 20 g oil and repeat steps 4–6 with the remaining halves. Serve both plates with the condiments in small dishes on a tray: lime wedges, crushed peanuts, chilli flakes, raw sprouts and a pinch of sugar, so everyone can season their own.