Tunisian Jewish cooking
Pkaila with beef and white beans
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Spinach slowly cooked to a deep, dark green, meltingly tender beef and creamy beans, brightened with mint and coriander: a classic of Tunisian Jewish celebrations.
Method
- If original and lighter portions are being prepared together, set aside the ingredients and amounts shown for the lighter portions; the remainder is for the original portions. Prepare the two versions separately wherever their cooking or seasoning differs. Divide the amounts given for the whole preparation between the pans or bowls, without adding the full amount to each. The day before, cover the beans generously with 1000 g cold water in a suitably sized container and soak in the fridge for 12 hours. On the day of cooking, drain and rinse; discard the soaking water.
- Heat 50 g oil in a thick-based casserole sized to the quantities (24 cm as a reference) over a medium heat. Add the spinach by the handful and stir for 10 minutes to evaporate its water. Reduce to a medium-low heat, add the 30 g oil reserved for the next stage of the slow cooking for the original version only, and continue for 30–40 minutes, scraping often. You want a glossy, very dark green paste, almost dry, with no burnt smell. Remove from the heat as soon as it is ready.
- Chop the onion and garlic. In a pot sized to the quantities (3–4 litres as a reference), soften the onion in the 10 g oil reserved for it over a medium heat for 6 minutes. Add the garlic, tabil and harissa; stir for 30 seconds.
- Add the beef, drained beans, the slow-cooked spinach with all its oil, 3 g salt, pepper and 1000 g hot water. Bring to the boil and cook uncovered for 10 minutes, then almost fully cover and reduce to the lowest heat: only a few small bubbles should rise.
- Simmer for 2 hours 30 minutes to 3 hours, stirring gently every 30 minutes. Keep the liquid level with the beans by adding the reserved hot water. The beef should yield to a fork and a bean should crush without a floury centre; continue in 15-minute intervals if needed.
- Finely chop the mint and coriander. Stir in two thirds, then cook uncovered over a low heat for 15 minutes: the sauce turns dark and thick, while remaining fluid enough to surround the beans. Taste, then gradually add the remaining salt.
- Turn off the heat, add the remaining herbs and rest covered for 10 minutes. Divide the meat, beans and sauce between shallow bowls according to the planned portions; the beans provide the meal's starchy component.
Variants and their steps remain below the recipe.
Lighter version
Reference variation for two servings.
The slow-cooked spinach is less rich and the sauce coats the ingredients less generously. The spinach's green flavour and the freshness of the mint stand out more, with less of a fried flavour.
- Extra virgin olive oil : 60 g
For the lighter portions' slow-cooked spinach, use their 50 g oil from the start in a casserole with a thick non-stick base, stirring very frequently over a low heat without a second addition of oil to the spinach; reserve their 10 g for the onion. These amounts are included in the totals; prepare this spinach separately from the original version. Keep the slow cooking that develops the dark colour.
Reduce only the oil; keep all the meat and beans.
On your plate
Recipe
1006 kcal · protein 66 g · carbs 46 g · fat 62 g
Quantities per person
- 200 g Stewing beef, shoulder or neck, cut into 4 cm cubes
- 75 g Dried white beans, for loubia
- 250 g Fresh spinach
- 45 g Extra virgin olive oil
- 60 g Yellow onions
- 10 g Garlic
- 7.5 g Fresh mint
- 10 g Fresh coriander
- 2 g Tabil (Tunisian coriander, caraway, garlic and chilli spice blend)
- 6 g Harissa
- 2.5 g Fine salt
- 0.25 g Ground black pepper
- 1200 g Water
Cooking tips
Allow for soaking the day before; the stated time covers the day of cooking, including slowly cooking the spinach. Pkaila improves with resting: cool quickly in shallow containers, refrigerate for up to 2 days and reheat gently with a little water until simmering. Do not aim for a charred black colour: burnt spinach makes the dish bitter.
Tunisian Jewish tradition, drawing on Lior Lev Sercarz's pkaila (Jewish Food Society) and the Harissa collection of family recipes; adapted for two.
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