Chicken biryani with saffron and golden onions

Name: Chicken biryani with saffron and golden onions
Prep time: 45 min
Total time: 90 min
Yield: 2 servings
Cuisine: world favourites
Ingredients: 450 g Boneless skinless chicken thighs (pargiyot) (3 cm pieces prepared by the butcher); 15 g Hot green chillies (1 chilli, deseeded and finely sliced; half for a milder heat); 15 g Garlic (3 cloves, grated); 20 g Fresh ginger (A 4 cm piece, grated); 120 g Lemon (1 lemon: 25 g juice in the marinade, a drizzle (10 g) between the rice layers, the rest in wedges at the table); 3 g Garam masala (1 tsp); 2 g Ground cumin (1/2 tsp); 3 g Ground coriander (1 tsp); 1 g Turmeric (1/3 tsp); 4 g Sweet paprika (1 heaped tsp, for the red colour of the masala); 1 g Hot red chilli powder (1/3 tsp); 0.5 g Ground cardamom (1 pinch, in the marinade); 0.5 g Ground cinnamon (1 pinch, in the marinade); 200 g Yellow onions (1 large onion or 1 and a half, thinly sliced); 180 g Tomatoes, vine or round (2 medium tomatoes, finely diced); 80 g Sunflower oil, for frying or as a neutral oil (80 g for frying the onions in two batches (about 3 mm in the 22 cm casserole); the onions absorb about 15 g, 20 g stays in the casserole for the masala and 10 g is reserved for drizzling over the rice; the rest (about 35 g) is discarded or kept for another batch of frying.); 180 g Basmati rice (Dry long-grain rice); 0.5 g Dried bay leaves (2 leaves, in the rice water); 0.5 g Cloves (4 cloves, in the rice water); 0.5 g Black peppercorns (About ten peppercorns, in the rice water); 1 g Green cardamom pods (4 crushed pods, in the rice water); 3 g Cinnamon sticks (1 stick, 5 cm long, in the rice water); 0.1 g Saffron threads (A small pinch of threads); 8 g Fresh mint (A handful of leaves, washed and checked); 12 g Fresh coriander (Half a bunch, washed and checked); 24 g Fine salt (6 g in the marinade (1 heaped tsp); 18 g in the rice parboiling water (12 g/L, distinctly salty), which is discarded: the rice retains about 3 g.); 1650 g Water (1,500 g for parboiling the rice (discarded), 100 g for the sauce, 50 g for the saffron)

meat world favourites · 4/5 · hard · 90 min, including 45 hands-on

Basmati rice parboiled in water scented with whole spices, then steamed in two layers over chicken marinated with lemon, chilli and spices, with crisp fried onions, mint and saffron; as in the Jewish kitchens of Bombay and Calcutta, it is made with oil and lemon, without yoghurt.

Ingredients for two

450 g	Boneless skinless chicken thighs (pargiyot) 3 cm pieces prepared by the butcher
15 g	Hot green chillies 1 chilli, deseeded and finely sliced; half for a milder heat
15 g	Garlic 3 cloves, grated
20 g	Fresh ginger A 4 cm piece, grated
120 g	Lemon 1 lemon: 25 g juice in the marinade, a drizzle (10 g) between the rice layers, the rest in wedges at the table
3 g	Garam masala 1 tsp
2 g	Ground cumin 1/2 tsp
3 g	Ground coriander 1 tsp
1 g	Turmeric 1/3 tsp
4 g	Sweet paprika 1 heaped tsp, for the red colour of the masala
1 g	Hot red chilli powder 1/3 tsp
0.5 g	Ground cardamom 1 pinch, in the marinade
0.5 g	Ground cinnamon 1 pinch, in the marinade
200 g	Yellow onions 1 large onion or 1 and a half, thinly sliced
180 g	Tomatoes, vine or round 2 medium tomatoes, finely diced
80 g	Sunflower oil, for frying or as a neutral oil 80 g for frying the onions in two batches (about 3 mm in the 22 cm casserole); the onions absorb about 15 g, 20 g stays in the casserole for the masala and 10 g is reserved for drizzling over the rice; the rest (about 35 g) is discarded or kept for another batch of frying.
180 g	Basmati rice Dry long-grain rice
0.5 g	Dried bay leaves 2 leaves, in the rice water
0.5 g	Cloves 4 cloves, in the rice water
0.5 g	Black peppercorns About ten peppercorns, in the rice water
1 g	Green cardamom pods 4 crushed pods, in the rice water
3 g	Cinnamon sticks 1 stick, 5 cm long, in the rice water
0.1 g	Saffron threads A small pinch of threads
8 g	Fresh mint A handful of leaves, washed and checked
12 g	Fresh coriander Half a bunch, washed and checked
24 g	Fine salt 6 g in the marinade (1 heaped tsp); 18 g in the rice parboiling water (12 g/L, distinctly salty), which is discarded: the rice retains about 3 g.
1650 g	Water 1,500 g for parboiling the rice (discarded), 100 g for the sauce, 50 g for the saffron

Method

Mix the chicken with the grated garlic and ginger, green chilli, 25 g lemon juice (half a lemon), garam masala, cumin, ground coriander, turmeric, paprika, ground chilli, ground cardamom and cinnamon, and 6 g salt (1 heaped tsp): each piece should be coated in an orange-red paste. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 30 minutes, ideally 2 hours or overnight. Rinse the rice in cold water three or four times, rubbing it gently between your fingers, until the water is almost clear, then soak for 30–45 minutes in cold water, which will be discarded.
While the chicken marinates, thinly slice the onions (an even 2–3 mm so they brown together), finely dice the tomatoes, and wash, check and pick the mint and coriander leaves. Crush the saffron threads between your fingers and steep them in 50 g very hot water: the water will turn bright orange.
Still during the marinating time, fry the onions: heat the 80 g oil over a medium-high heat in the casserole; a sliver of onion should sizzle immediately. Fry in two batches for 8–10 minutes each, stirring often and constantly towards the end, until evenly golden brown; lift out with a slotted spoon one shade before the desired colour, as they continue to darken off the heat. Drain on kitchen paper and spread out: they crisp as they cool. Leave 2 tbsp oil (20 g) in the casserole, reserve 1 tbsp (10 g) in a bowl and discard the rest.
Heat the 1,500 g water in the 3 L saucepan with 18 g salt (1 heaped tbsp), bay leaves, cloves, peppercorns, crushed cardamom pods and cinnamon stick: the water should taste distinctly salty and will come to the boil while the chicken simmers. In the casserole, over a medium-high heat, add the chicken with all its marinade and the tomatoes to the onion oil; cook for 5 minutes, stirring, until the tomatoes collapse and the meat is seared. Crumble a quarter of the fried onions between your fingers into the sauce, pour in 100 g water, cover and simmer over a low heat for 10 minutes. Uncover and reduce for 3 minutes: the sauce should coat the pieces with no pool at the bottom, and a cut piece should be white in the centre.
When the sauce has 5 minutes left, the spiced water should be at a rolling boil: drain the soaked rice and add it. Cook for 4–5 minutes after the water returns to the boil: the grains should have lengthened and break when bitten, with a distinctly firm centre, about two-thirds cooked. Immediately drain through the sieve without rinsing; the whole spices can stay in the rice. The rice and sauce are ready together.
Off the heat, level the chicken and sauce across the bottom of the casserole. Spread half the rice over it without pressing down, scatter with half the remaining fried onions, half the mint and coriander, and drizzle with lemon juice (10 g). Cover with the remaining rice, then the remaining onions and mint, keeping a little coriander for serving. Drizzle over the saffron infusion to streak the rice yellow and spoon over the reserved onion oil. Do not stir.
Lay a folded clean tea towel over the casserole, close the lid over it and fold the corners back onto the lid, well away from the flame: this traps the steam for the 'dum' cooking. Cook over a medium heat for 3 minutes, until the casserole hisses gently and the lid is very hot, then over the lowest heat for 17 minutes without opening; use a heat diffuser if the base gets too hot.
Turn off the heat and rest for 10 minutes, still covered. Serve by taking the spoon right down to the bottom, so each portion contains white rice, saffron rice, onions and chicken in sauce, without stirring the dish: the rice should be tender, with every grain separate. Scatter over the remaining coriander and put the lemon wedges on the table.

Lighter version

Basmati rice : 140 g
Sunflower oil, for frying or as a neutral oil : 30 g
Boneless skinless chicken thighs (pargiyot) : 400 g

At step 3, bake the onions instead of frying: mix with 20 g oil, spread on a tray lined with baking paper and cook for 25–30 minutes at 200°C, stirring twice, until golden brown (watch closely for the last 5 minutes).

At step 4, heat the remaining 10 g oil in the casserole before adding the chicken. At step 6, do not drizzle oil over the rice.

Less rice and chicken, with oven-browned rather than fried onions: 30 g oil in total instead of 45 g consumed; the same layering and steaming.

On your plate

Recipe

905 kcal · protein 56 g · carbs 85 g · fat 35 g

Quantities per person

225 g Boneless skinless chicken thighs (pargiyot)
7.5 g Hot green chillies
7.5 g Garlic
10 g Fresh ginger
60 g Lemon
1.5 g Garam masala
1 g Ground cumin
1.5 g Ground coriander
0.5 g Turmeric
2 g Sweet paprika
0.5 g Hot red chilli powder
0.25 g Ground cardamom
0.25 g Ground cinnamon
100 g Yellow onions
90 g Tomatoes, vine or round
40 g Sunflower oil, for frying or as a neutral oil
90 g Basmati rice
0.25 g Dried bay leaves
0.25 g Cloves
0.25 g Black peppercorns
0.5 g Green cardamom pods
1.5 g Cinnamon sticks
0.05 g Saffron threads
4 g Fresh mint
6 g Fresh coriander
12 g Fine salt
825 g Water

Cooking tips

Make the marinade the day before: the chicken will taste even better and the total time drops to 75 minutes. The fried onions can also be made the day before and kept in a closed container at room temperature. For mild heat, use half a green chilli and no ground chilli. The secret to distinct layers is to drain the rice while still firm, put a tea towel under the lid and never open it during steaming. Biryani reheats very well the next day, covered over a low heat with 2 tbsp water, and can also be eaten warm rather than hot.

Equipment : 22 cm heavy-based casserole with a lid, 3 L saucepan, Fine sieve, Slotted spoon and kitchen paper, Clean tea towel, Heat diffuser if needed

Chicken biryani in the spirit of Indian Jewish cooking (the Bene Israel of Bombay and the Baghdadi Jews of Calcutta), where meat dishes contain no dairy: lemon and spice marinade, fried onions and saffron rice steamed in layers.

Chicken biryani with saffron and golden onions

Method

On your plate

Recipe

Cooking tips

Starters to serve with this dish

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