Ziti alla genovese with beef and melting onions

Method

1. If preparing original and lighter portions together, set aside the ingredients and quantities shown for the lighter portions; the remainder is for the original portions. Prepare the two versions separately wherever their cooking or seasoning differs. Divide the quantities given for the whole preparation between the pans or bowls, rather than using the full quantity in each. Finely slice the onions. Finely dice the carrot and celery. Pat the meat dry with kitchen paper. Heat the oil in a 22 cm casserole and sear the meat in batches without overlapping the pieces (two batches for the two-portion reference), for 5 minutes per batch over a medium-high heat, until well browned on the outside; set aside on a plate.
2. Reduce to a medium heat. Add the carrot and celery to the casserole and stir for 3 minutes, loosening the browned bits from the base, then add the onions in two batches and the 4 g of salt. Cover for 10 minutes: the onions will soften and release their liquid.
3. Return the meat and its juices to the casserole with the bay leaf, parsley stalks and pepper. Cover and cook over a very low heat for 2½–3 hours, at no more than a gentle simmer. Stir every 25–30 minutes, gently scraping the base. If the onions start to stick before the meat is tender, pour in a little of the reserved water in small additions (as a guide, 50 g at a time for two portions).
4. Once the meat pulls apart with a fork and the onions have almost become a purée, remove the lid. Pour in the wine and cook over a medium-low heat for 20–30 minutes, stirring often, until the sauce is amber and a spoon drawn across the base leaves a brief trail. Remove the bay leaf and parsley stalks. Pull the meat into thick strands with two forks.
5. Towards the end of the reduction, bring the pasta water to the boil (reference: 1.5 litres for two portions; choose a suitable pan and keep the pasta submerged), add the 15 g of salt and cook the broken ziti for 1 minute less than the packet instructions. Reserve a cup of cooking water. Stir the pasta with all the sauce and meat over a low heat for 1 minute; loosen with spoonfuls of cooking water if needed.
6. Scatter with the finely chopped parsley leaves and serve hot, without cheese. The sauce should fill the tubes without leaving a pool of water at the bottom of the plate.

Variants and their steps remain below the recipe.